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 Vinegar
Information
Real
VINEGAR adds real flavor
Distinctive vinegars are making a big splash these days.
Chefs and home cooks alike have realized the flavor
possibilities that today’s heady vinegars offer. From
Spanish sherry vinegar to Italy’s famed balsamic vinegar,
to fruit vinegars pressed exclusively from fruits other
than grapes ( apples, currants, pears to name a few )
this ancient condiment has become the new playground for
cooks seeking to add flavor without adding sweetness or
heat. In fact, in some cases, salt can be reduced or
eliminated if vinegar is used in a dish.
Vinegar is an essential component that adds verve and
backbone to a recipe, be it as elemental as pairing an
agrodolce ( late harvest ) Sauvignon Blanc wine
vinegar with a slightly peppery olive oil for a
seasonal pear, walnut and baby spinach salad, or the
addition of a splash of a nutty, aromatic sherry vinegar
to an end-of-summer chilled gazpacho or a simple tapas-inspired
dish of chorizo, garlic and white beans.
In recent years Americans have embraced the sweet-sour
glory of balsamic vinegar, a very heady departure from the
clean-edges of the prim but delicious French tarragon and
shallot white wine vinegars that reigned supreme during
Julia’s heyday on television program The French Chef in
the 1970’s.
In the late 1980’s the Silver Palate took NYC ( and the
rest of foodie-America ) by storm with their innovative
recipes and new, fresh approach to food. They lit a
spark of interest in America for raspberry and blueberry
vinegars that began the ascendancy of fruit vinegar as a
gourmet ingredient and essential flavor component.
Today, all manner of artisan vinegars can be
found. Some tend towards being dry or sweet, others
fruity or piquant. Some are thick and dark in color,
others are thin, golden, tawny or port-like in color. My
pantry is full of flavorsome vinegars, and I use them all
with great delight. It is as important to me that I choose
the right vinegar to enhance my dish and I select it with
as much consideration as I do olive oil, salt, cheese,
spices and herbs, and wine. I select vinegar based on the
dish and the harmony of flavors that I want the vinegar to
bring to the dish.
Despite what many think, vinegar is not spoiled wine. Yes,
wine vinegar is made from grapes, and vinegar can be made
at home from leftover wine ( plus the addition of a
mother, a fermentation keg, etc. ) but the process used to
make wine is different than the process used to make
vinegar.
The winemaking process converts fruit sugar into alcohol;
vinegar-making converts the fruit sugar into a dilute
10-13 % alcohol then employs a bacterial fermentation to
convert the alcohol in the fruit sugar into acetic acid,
or vinegar. This same process yields stunning, albeit more
costly results with other fruit such as apples, pears,
cherries or figs.
When skilled vinegar makers use sound, ripe fruit and
barrel age their products, great vinegar results. Many
European and California wine makers reserve a portion of
their grapes for vinegar making. I love the distinctive
flavors that these grapes give to the vinegar, and can
often taste the ‘wine grape ‘ in the bottle.
Short cuts, speedy production and damaged fruit compromise
flavor. Those of us who grew up with flavorless,
colorless and just plain nasty vinegar in the pre-Julia
days remember all too well when vinegar was anything but
gourmet.
The best vinegars adds a tart, sharp, clean, distinct snap
to vinaigrettes, marinades, sauces, chutneys and pickles.
Vinegars should be a good marriage of flavor and acidity
and add something to the conversation that is going on
between all of the food elements on the plate.
Great vinegars are very reasonably priced, and most
cost less than a good bottle of wine. And vinegar keeps
well for years. Enthusiastic cooks have spice cabinets or
spice drawers – why not a vinegar shelf as well ?
Wine….sugar to alcohol
Wine Vinegar…..alcohol to acid
Balsamic Vinegar….sugar to acid
Balsamic Vinegar
 In
Italy, mature balsamic vinegar is used both as a seasoning
(condiment), and as vinegar. In addition to pairing
various balsamic vinegars with a great olive oil to
drizzle over salad greens, juicy tomatoes, or fresh
mozzarella cheese, try anointing a succulent steak, pork
tenderloin, or lamb kabob with a few drops of `balsamic
vinegar while hot off the grill. Balsamic is also
excellent sprinkled on grilled asparagus, fresh garden
peas, snappy green beans, or a rough-cut chunk of fragrant Parmigiano-Reggiano. For a real Italian treat, try a few
drops of balsamic vinegar on very ripe sweet fruit, such
as fresh summer strawberries or peaches. Bellissimo !
Balsamic
vinegar is aged in a series of five different wooden
barrels, each of which adds flavor and complexity to the
vinegar. Woods include chestnut (rich in tannin and
helps create rich dark color), cherry (sweetness),
mulberry (to lend a hint of vanilla to the flavor),
juniper (provides a resinous aroma), and oak
(to seal the different flavors).
Balsamic
vinegar is produced at 4 levels of quality.
The top
grade, Tradizionale, is the original, most expensive and
highly-revered balsamic. You will pay handsomely for a
noble bottle of this elixir that has been crafted in the
traditional way by an artisan producer. This balsamic is
superbly lush and intense, syrupy with complex flavors and
heady aromas.
The next
level is known as Artigianale. These balsamics are smooth,
full-bodied, and polished, and have a tangy, fruity
finish.
The third
level is Condimenti. These balsamics are well-rounded and
spirited, brisk, yet vibrant - the balsamics of everyday
use in Italy.
Lastly is the
Industriale, the low-level cheap stuff that is best
avoided. As with many things, you get what you pay for
when purchasing balsamic vinegar - you will never find
better-quality balsamic at discount prices. There is just
not enough of it.
Both
Artigianale and Condimenti balsamics are a way for
Tradizionale producers to bring to market a well-crafted
product that possesses both good style and integrity of
flavor, yet is more easily affordable.
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