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We are
thrilled to be able to offer tea enthusiasts a
distinguished grouping of the Wu Yi Shan oolongs. It
is not often that such a fine selection of these teas
can be purchased from one well-sourced place in the
West. Those in the know will recognize these teas:
Bai Ji Guan, Da Hong Pao, Shui Jin Gui and Tie
Lo Han as the four most famous Wu Yi Shan
teas ( which are known as Si Da Ming Cong ). Jun Zi
Lan is a lesser known yan cha but a delicious
selection as well. As is the custom in the Wu Yi Shan,
the teas are named after their singular tea bush
varietals:
For lovers
of Chinese oolongs, Wu Yi Shan oolongs hold a special
place. Also known as cliff teas, rock oolongs
or more specifically, yan cha, these teas (as
a family of oolongs within the oolong class ) are
easily recognized by their appearance. Unlike semiball-rolled-style
oolongs, the leaves of yan cha are not connected –
they are plucked and processed individually, which
yields long, thick, strip-style single leaves.
Yan cha are dark in appearance, and are at the extreme
end of partial-oxidation: 70-80%. They are
traditionally given a light, medium or heavy
roasting over charcoal ember fires. Yan cha represent
the best in traditional, old-style Chinese oolongs,
and were the favorite of emperors and Chinese
scholars. The flavors of these teas, while filled with
nuance and character, are strong, powerful and
mouth-drenching, and not for the faint of heart.
Prefer bourbon over gin ? Steak over chicken ?
Espresso over latte ? Then Wu Yi Shan oolongs may be
the tea you have been searching for.
The Wu Yi Shan region in northern Fujian Province is
famous for its collection of rare varietal tea bushes
that grow throughout this rocky landscape of cliffs
and peaks. It is estimated that close to one hundred
distinct named varieties of Camellia sinensis tea
bushes have been identified there. Each named variety
of tea bush produces a fine and noble tea that is
named after it, which happily provides yan cha fans
with much to sample and discuss.
Many of these tea bushes are old ( some are over
fifty years in age ) despite the fact that their roots
are grounded into threadbare patches of soil among the
high cliffs of this mountainous area. Because of this
difficult terrain, most of these tea bushes are rather
scraggly in appearance and produce a very small
quantity of leaves ( as compared to the lush growth
and full yield of tea bushes in maintained tea
gardens).
Yan chas are influenced by the minerals in the soil
where they grow; the terroir in the Wu Yi Shan is like
no other in China. The soil is composed of broken
bits of rock shards rather than rich garden loam.
Consequently, the tea bushes and leaves absorb the
flavor of the minerals in the ‘soil’ which in turn
adds another dimension of flavor to the steeped tea.
As a group, the flavor characteristics of yan cha can
be described as: bold, earthy, and woodsy, underscored
with the taste of stone and mineral. Floral overtones
likened to stone fruits such as ripe peaches and
apricots are also present. As with fine wine,
the intensity of the taste of any batch of yan cha is
in proportion to the quality of tea.
Yan cha are also known for their seductive, powerful
aromatics. The flavor of a good yan cha will
linger pleasantly on the breath ( hui gan ),
providing a sweet aftertaste ( memory ) long after the
last sip has been savored.
A tasting of several of these teas is a lovely way to
spend a quiet afternoon contemplating their
similarities and differences. Yan cha, when steeped
Chinese gong-fu style ( ie; a larger ration of leaf to
a smaller ratio of water in a small Yixing teapot or
gaiwan ) can be infused multiple times over the course
of a tea drinking session, adding to the mystique and
pleasure found in drinking these teas.
All yan cha undergo the same steps of leaf
manufacture, but each reflects the flavor and aroma
characteristics of its distinctive fresh leaf.
Comparing one tea to another is the perfect way to
begin to understand these magnificent teas.
As with other unique Chinese teas, Wu Yi Shan yan cha
obtain their singular qualities from a set of
particular variables, such as:
-
terroir ( geography, climate, weather, soil )
-
specific named tea bush varietals unique to the Wu
Yi Shan
-
traditional tea cultivation methodology
-
a long and exhaustive process of leaf manufacture
-
second and final roasting over a charcoal ember fire
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