|
 This
is a new tea ( yes, many teas have been developed by tea
research institutes and tea farmers in various tea
producing countries during the 20th and 21st centuries )
that is now cultivated from tea bushes that were
hybridized over the last few years and planted in the Da
Yu Ling area of Li Shan.
Farmers in this region then began to experiment with a tea
cultivation methodology used in the Bai Hao oolong
tea gardens in the north of Taiwan. And that is to allow (
or not prevent ) resident leaf-hopper insects to chew a
little on the edges of tea leaves while still on the tea
bushes. Apparently, the ‘chewing’ action of the insects
results in a defensive, enzymatic change within the leaf
that results in tea with a sweeter flavor and the lush
aroma of ‘honey.’ (This tea is not the same as the Mi
Xiang ( Honey Fragrance ) Fenghuang dan cong tea from
Guangdong Province, China ).
Look closely at this tea, and instead of seeing individual
leaves, you will see irregular balls of leaf with visible
stem attached. These leaves are not as large as some of
the other Li Shan gao shan, perhaps from the working over
that the insects give them!
The color of this leaf is a vibrant green-grey-bluish
color, with a bit of a shine on the leaf from the cell
juices. This tea is known as a – gao shan – a high
mountain grown tea that is entirely hand-plucked. The
pluck is comprised of the complete stem end of the branch
and includes three or four connecting leaves (and
sometimes a little bud or two attached). These attached
clusters of leaf can be strikingly large, one of the
signatures of a good gao shan.
Gao shan teas grow at altitudes of 6,000 feet or more. At
this elevation, the cool-crisp high-altitude environment
contributes wonderful nuances to the flavor of tea. This
tea is from the Li Shan, one of Taiwan’s most famous tea
mountains. Specifically, the tea is from the Da Yu Ling
tea growing area, which is slightly over 8,000 feet in
altitude, making it one of the highest-elevation tea
growing areas in the world. Da Yu Ling produces only two
harvests each year: one in the winter ( 1st pluck ) and
one in the spring ( 2nd pluck ).
The cold thin air of this location conspires to produce
succulent oolongs that are chewy, juicy and feature a
pleasant combination of sweetness and astringency. But Mi
Xiang has very little astringency, and offers instead
subtle sweetness in flavor and aroma. It is reminiscent of
a very light Bai Hao ( Oriental Beauty ). Mi Xiang
captures many wonderful gao shan qualities in the
cup – sweetness, smoothness, a slight green creaminess,
clarity of taste and color of the liquor - without
astringency.
Multiple infusions are necessary to reach the heart of
this tea, a totally pleasurable journey.
Upon steeping, and especially by the 3rd or 4th infusion,
the leaves will have opened to an astonishingly large size
in the cup. Be sure to pull some out, lay them on a table,
and carefully spread the leaves to appreciate the full
glory of this type of pluck.
The clear amber color of this tea’s liquor will remain
consistent through at least 4 steepings.
Gao shans are best drunk at a slightly cool temperature.
Western-style steeping:
(Medium to large sized teapot: 20-32 oz)
Use 1 Tablespoon (2-3 grams) of tea per each 6oz water
Steep 1-3 infusions at 2-3 minutes each.
Water temperature should be 180˚ - 190˚ F
Asian-style steeping: (small teapots under 10 oz or a gaiwan)
Use 2 Tablespoons (5-6 grams) of tea per each 6oz water
Steep upwards of 6-8 infusions (or more!) at 10 seconds to 1 minute each
Water temperature should be 180˚ - 190˚ F |
